A2 Design Development Sheets
The very last process of this project has done. I did 5 A2 sheets. The first page is shown the theme of this project. It can be seen the curtains (valley curtains, colorado, Christo and Jeanne-Claude) and the bedroom. These two images are the main items of this project. Also there is color palette (orange, black with pin-striped, sky blue and white). I tried to show all the important keys of the project generally. The second page is about draping experiment and initial designs. What I gained from the draping was voluminous sleeves and shirt details so I put these images on this page to make people understand easily. The next page is shown design development. All the textiles and key designs are in this page to make sure what shapes and silhouette I want to show and develop further. Moreover, I put fabric samples that I used for making garment. The fourth page is the line-up. I did 6 final designs for this project. All colored and added some fabrics and materials. The last page is the illustration. I chose one design from the line-up page and exaggerated the design drawing also I tried to focus on textures and details on the design.
Illustration on A2 sheets.
Using various drawing and painting materials I did few illustrations on A2 sheets. It gets more vibrant and active when there is a space because I use the lines and colours boldly.
Hand in the items for the exhibition.
- A pajama style long coat with a belt and a multipurpose accessory.
- 3 A3 sheets of photoshoot.
Final Garment Making.
I choose one designs for making garment. The chosen design was a long pyjama style coat with a belt and a multipurpose accessory. I experimented with patterns and made my own coat pattern. I had been struggling with sleeves and collar because the pattern shape was round and it was hard to measure and connect them to the front and the back patterns. The coat is made of pin-striped cotton fabric and it looks very simple but I put some details such as unbalanced side slit and transformable collar. Also, I put a handmade mini duvet (or a pillow) on a right side slit as a expression of personal space which gave feelings of comfort to the coat. It is made for men but women also can wear it like a oversized coat. The belt has long and colourful details made of ribbons, cotton fabrics and a thread of beads. These details look like a stripe pattern when you see it with a distance. The last, I made a long pillow as a fashion accessory. This could be a muffler or a pillow (when you want to sleep in somewhere where there is not a bedroom).
I couldn't take photos of making process because I am unable to do two things at once when I concentrate on something. However the garment was almost same with the design.
Final Menswear Design Line up.
The final menswear designs are more order and simple than the womenswear but I tried not to lose the details and to add some touching of final womenswear designs. The designs are androgynous so this could be unisex.
I started to find men's pyjama style at first because I already had design ideas, colour palette and fabrics. I didn't want to remove all the sense and details of the designs for women so I only looked some technical skills and difference between men's and women's pattern. It wasn't so different with oversized womenswear.
I also wanted to make more wearable clothes for menswear because I already had womenswear design and it was convoluted and more like art not clothes. So I began to design considering carefully.
My earlier projects were all about the womenswear so did this project but I had to change it to the menswear. The list of the shooting for womenswear was full named so I couldn't put my name on the list. The only way I could do for the shooting was putting my name on the list of menswear. I did not want to lose this chance to take photos of my garment so I did.
However I don't feel that there is no boundary between womenswear and menswear. I always prefer to make oversized clothes and making unisex garment was one of my plans for the next few years. I feel that this is a opportunity to try and study menswear.
Photoshoot Location Research.
I also wanted to take photoshoot with my final garment so I looked for the right place matching with my project and the garment. I choose one design for making so it was not hard to imagine where the garment should be taken photos to make it have strong impression. I thought the outside (for example the park or the street) would be better to take photos than the inside at first but then I realized that taking photos in the bedroom would be related to the project and the mood. So the location will be the bedroom (still not fixed whose bedroom) apart from the photoshoot in the studio in next week.
I did some illustrations with the final line-up designs. It would be great if I had any 3D making to illustrate but I only had 2D designs. I couldn't make any samples of final line-up design because it was hard to choose only one to make and try and I didn't have enough fabrics and materials. Coloring and adding face/movement gave live to the designs. It looked more vibrant and appealed than before.
Final Womenswear Design Line-up.
What I did for the final line-up was letting the designs be abstract. As I finish the course with this project I wanted to create something (that could be a garment or a installation) very artistic and conceptual without regard to cost and pressure. So the final designs were inspired by pajamas but it is hard to find the form or the shape of pajamas. However I think this line-up shows my thoughts and project theme clearly so I am quite satisfactory.
Sketchbook and making process.
I added some details I would use for the garment. This process was based on the semi final line-up designs. I draw and explained specific part of the design that might be difficult to understand or interesting. Making samples were needed for some part of the design. With those drawings and samples I did create some abstract shapes on the body also emphasized what part I would like to show mostly. After finishing sketchbook I started to make some accessories for the final piece. I thought making a pillow or a duvet would be great for understanding my project theme easily. These items could be multipurpose.
Semi-final design has come out but I still need to change details. There was only line drawing so I had to think which colors and fabric should I have to put on the designs. It was also important to match and give different ratio of colors. After I filled the colors and made decision of using fabrics I then looked at the flow of the development. It would be disturbed if there are designs that are not from the research or the sketchbook, that are from my imagination which is none-related to the work. So I removed that factors and modified the designs.
After the bedroom research, I found the stitch and embroidery work on a duvet and pillow. I thought I could use them as a process and put these on a fabric, fabrication. Then I did some stitch and embroidery samples adding various materials. The works were on a part of the pieces of the blinds so they would become a part of a garment. Also, I tried to use different materials such as a frame of the windows or the bed.
Sophie Calle, Mark Borthwick.
Research: the photographer's gallery.
Over the past thirty years, Sophie Calle has invited strangers to sleep in her bed, followed a man through the streets of Paris to Venice, hired a detective to spy on herself before providing a report of her day, and asked blind people to tell her about the final image they remember. (an extract from a website:http://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/deutsche-b-rse-photography-foundation-prize-2017)
Her project is related to my "privacy" project. Inviting strangers to sleep in the bed is same meaning to show off the privacy. Still, I am not sure how to put her work in my project and how to use.
Visual research in Iceland.
Observational drawing with the finished draping and illustration with consideration of colours. Found interesting shapes from the drawings and kept developing them, combine with previous design development. With the drawings and images I found later, did some experiment and made textile samples as well. The experiment was about the cottons and feathers inside the pillow and duvet. thought I could make something that had volumes. Also, did structural work with the result of this experiment and latest work.
After the research about the bedroom I simply did draping work with the items in my bedroom: pillow, duvet and the blinds. The silhouette of the draping was very simple but interesting. I always prefer to make voluminous shape and scale and the result of this draping showed exactly same way. It made me think of using duvet as a fabric. I did more draping with these items and captured them.
While I was doing design development I thought there were more references about the bedroom. I went to the library and started to find about the bedroom, especially the bed. Before I found the books I searched on the internet to get more visual ideas and I got inspiration from the things that are always in the bedroom which are a pillow, duvet, blanket and a matrix. Then I found artists who used these items to their work.
Maryam Ashkanian, who uses embroidery as an expression. She does embroidery on a pillow and the name of this work is "sleep series".
Research of the women/men's night wear gave me a lot of ideas that were able to put into my several designs. Especially, I was into the men's cotton pyjamas and women's metal corset base. I tried to use these details and develop them further with the geometric shape gained from the blinds. Also the curtains and women's night gown/lob had similarity that both are silky and flexible so I thought I could use these as well. I started with collage on the body and tried to find silhouette from the collages and develop as garment designs, adding technical details. Also, considering colours.
After the experiments with blinds and curtains and gaining some shapes from them I started to think more about the garment details, where could I found and use, which clothes and time period are related to my project. I began to think what I thought at the beginning of this project that the bedroom is the most personal and private place in the house. So I started to do research about the clothes we wear in the bedroom: pyjamas, nightwear, lob, gowns and etc. What I found at the library was women night wear and lingeries. Most of them were made of silk and satin and contained lace details as a decoration. I found more interesting things in lingerie part, the corset and the foundations of the corset which were made of metal sticks. I felt interested in them because the both silk/satin and the foundation of the corset have different characters. The one is smooth and it has some organic feelings but the other one has technical and functional part. Still, I wanted to look about the cotton pyjamas also men's night wear so I will do research more about them and see what I would find in there.
I was wondering what else I could do with the blinds and I thought there were more than just doing drape with blinds on the body. Fortunately, the weather was nice and sunny which the sunshine came through the windows and blinds and I found what the light and the shadow made through the windows. The shape I found was geometric. The squares appeared irregularly and they were thick and long squares. I saw the window at night again to get the new shapes of squares. I found there were squares as well but thinner than the day one. I took photos of them and did observational drawings also the illustrations with collages.
Today I was thinking about colour palette. I prefer using neutral/mono tone colours more than vibrant/primary colours however in this time I would like to use one primary colour that could make details stand out which was the orange. I was inspired by the work of Christo Jean claude. It is called "valley curtain" and the colour used for the curtains was bright orange. I felt this colour could be the point of my garment. Then I looked more about this colours, variation with black, pin striped and neutral colours. After I decided to use orange colour I wanted to experiment with the colours so I did match with various colours for example, complementary colour such as blue, low/high chroma of orange etc. I thought blue colour had a connection with my project because my idea started from the windows and basically windows are for ventilation and seeing outside and sky which is the most we see through the window is blue colour, especially sky blue. So my decision for the colour palette is using orange, sky blue, black ( with pin-striped) and white. Still, I need more experiments with colours.
Draping and textile sample.
I did draping on a dummy using flexible blinds. The shape I made looked like pleats and some parts looked very round soft because of its flexibility. I also liked the way it showed empty space which was able to see the body. The blinds are consisted of long squares and these squares are connected with a thread with small circle beads so when it is put on something that has shape and volumes the empty space appears between the squares and the shapes of this space are very irregular. I got interested in this and decided to do drawings and making samples: straight lines, circle beads, empty space, long squares also gave some little changes to the design. The textile sample was made with threads, beads and line tapes which the materials were too obvious for making samples. I think I should find other materials something connected to my project but unexpected.
What I earn from the printing work I decided to develop further. Firstly, I did some collage and observational drawings which always give me a new idea and direction. I usually make round shape when I do design garments but the drawings showed square shapes and straight lines and that made me feel interested. I kept focusing on the straight lines and corners of the drawings and put these parts into the garment design. Also, I got a print that geometric shapes are arranged regularly. I wanted to do work with the print with adding materials that are used for the blinds or curtains. Still, I need to do more drawings and experiments.
Design development and Printing work.
What I learned at the class was helpful to do a design development. I started thinking of design and the details in clothes. I used my draping work as a initial design and kept developing it. Change of the shirt details made the design slightly different however lack of a research about the garment and the details made me stuck on the development process. I decided to research more and deeply about the garment, not sure which period of time I would take and search so I need to think and find a relation between the time period and the theme of my project.
I missed the chance to do a print activity because of personal reason so I did my own printing work alone. The repetition of geometric shapes I found at the blinds made me think of print and with this visual idea I arrange the lines and squares regulary. The result of this printing work was satisfactory. I would like to make a collage using this printing work and keep doing experiment with it.
Structural Work and Draping
In today's class I had a chance to do a draping with fabrics I brought today for the class. Before I did the draping each one made a solid structure with three big different images related to the project. It was hard to make a solid structure because all the images I had had many corners and they were complicated to connect together. So the results was irregular but simple shape. I did some observational drawings trying to use different media and ways of drawing, I used my left hand which is not convenient for drawing or writing, used thin masking tape to do mark makings and not only focussing on the details but also the silhouette and the shape of the structure . The pencils, crayons, markers and coloured pencils were used for the drawing to make the drawings have various textures.
After then, based on what I made at the class I exaggerated the structure and re-made with the fabrics. I wanted to make voluminous shape so I used fabrics that are thicker than cottons. It kept the shape well indeed also easy to change the shape. I did some quick drawing and put some details on my creation then it looked more like a garment. Through this process I learned how to develop the initial shapes and structures as a garment and while the draping.
After starting research I found some books related to the materials. I was able to find various types of curtains and blinds in some books which are about the interior then I got to know that there were quite a lot of types and shapes of curtains also the accessories used for the curtains and blinds seemed to be felt strange but interesting. I decided to look minutely about the curtains and blinds especially the way of hanging curtains and what goemetric shapes I could find through the blinds.
The shilouette of the curtains was almost a round shape however the blinds had opposite shape of what the curtains have. The shape I found on the blinds was like a geometric shape, the one had corners such as a squre.
I started to think about things for hiding something. Firstly, the curtains and blinds that are usually used for blocking out the sunlight or other people's eyes. I tried to find related books with these materials. What I searched was the history of making and using curtains/blinds, materials used for making, the process or working and any artist who was using these as an object.
Finish project proposal.
Finally I made my decision of the project concept. After a serious consideration I decided to start my project from my experience and thought. I usually liked to see the windows of apartments and house with different patterns of curtains and the frames or the terrace with plants and sundries when I'm walking streets and I felt like I steal a glance at someone's privacy. However then I felt the more I tried to see the inside of the windows, the more they hide their secret. My curiosity started from here. "How the people hide their private space and conceal their privacy?" This self-question lead me to decide the concept.
I will start researching the different methods of hiding also more focussed on curtains and blinds on windows I will begin to find the history of curtains/blinds/windows, what materials are used for making, how it works and artist who is using these things as an object.
I need to control and push myself from now. Managing time is also a part of the project. It will be uncontrollably hard to finish the project if I don't set a time and things-to-do schedule. I was accustomed to do delaying my work and release myself but after I realised that it actually made me worse to finish something I started to make time table and it really helped me to finish the work on time. This project is in the long-term so it is easy to get impatience when I get closer to the deadline. I will make a schedule for the project so that I can finish my work completely on time.
After choosing security_privacy as a theme I was confused and worried about to start the project. However taking with classmates and tutor helped me to fine the direction. As a feedback they gave me it is better to have personal experience or thoughts in the concept. I was too obsessed to sensual mood and man who has secret which is dressing up as a women and I always tried to put this in my project. This obsession could have leaded to a wrong direction. So I started to focus on the word privacy and to find a connection with my experience and thought.
Reveal the secret
space made of transparent fabric so that it is easy to see what is in there and what a person is doing in the inside from the outside.
keep researching about structures and object made of transparent materials.
conceal the secret
christo and jeane
I looked for the image of the movie named "in the mood for love" because I thought this movie has some connection to privacy. Briefly, the movie is about forbidden love. The director says these time is flowering years for them. Two married couples live in a same apartment in Hong Kong, 1962. Each wife and husband had affair with the other husband and wife. The main characters already knew it but they didn't tell their wife/husband and kept as a secret then they fell in love. They also cheated on their husband/wife and these two couples hide their secret to each other. This whole story is about the secrecy and hiding which is related to my concept. I found some images about this movie and started research more deeply. I also searched about the backgrounds of the movie, the time period, the costumes they wore in that time and the space. The backdrops of this movie is 1960's in Hong kong. I found some books about Hong kong/Chinese traditional dress and what they wore in 1960's.
I researched the photographer Bohn-Chang Koo for my previous project and I found a book about his work in the library. Some of his work were sensual and seems like he took photos while he was stealing a glance at someone's body. I thought his work is definitely related to my concept so I tried to re-find the book I saw before at the library.
Private room, private sight, private space, keep warning not to come inside.
Desire of knowing other's secret_"What is in there?"
Conceal the secret. Hide from somebody else and keep safely.
All the privacy is shrouded in secrecy.
Man who has a secret that wearing dress as a women_his own privacy.
Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art.
Fundacio Mapfre: Peter Hujar - A la velocity de la vida.
God's own junkyard: Neon lights
I found a place where lots of neon signs were exhibited near Walthamstow Central station, zone 3. This gallery was called "God's own junkyard". I was curious about the name because I thought God and neon which is the symbol of colourful and fancy lights are quite irrelevant each other. It kept me guessing and being curious. After I came to the gallery I was mesmerised by the use of vibrant colours and lights. All the signs and simple drawings stand out because of the contrast between dark space and bright light. Also using complementary colours and primary colours at the same time in the same work made the work more vibrant. It made me think depends on what colour is used the work stands out and get attention. In the other way, too many colours were used for one work. It always needs adjustability.
It was interesting that they used a plaster cast of God and adding neon lights on it because the combination of these two materials that had different feelings were unexpected. The materials used for the light was interesting as well. All the works were made by glass and it only had round curves.
Victoria Miro Gallery: Do-Ho Suh - Passage/s
This exhibition reminded me the first exhibition of him I saw around 5 years ago. I was mesmerised by his huge scale of work and the purpose of the work. I didn't know how important it is to show one's ideas clearly and strongly before I saw his work, then I realised that I also have to care about the thought, the idea of the work and how to make people feel curious. In this exhibition, "Passage/s", firstly I got interested in the process of his works: Thread drawing which means mark-making through stitching on a gelatine sheet and embedded on STPI, only using stitch and mesh/organza fabric he made a three-dimensional space. Generally, when I think about stitching on a fabric the results of this process is very flat and two-dimensional however his work was completely against the general theory which I liked a lot and making a see-through space that is able to pass through. I am going to think about using materials in a different way such as making structural work with stitching.
Then I was focussed on what he wants to say through this exhibition. There was a saying, "Life is a passageway, there is no fixed beginning and no fixed destination. We have to focus on all the time and forget about the in-between spaces." This phrase didn't give me a idea of choosing theme but gave me a motivation of what I am doing and what I will do.
NOW Gallery: Molly Godaard
The last project began. I haven't decide what then I would like to choose because I wanted to make sure and be confident about my choice so that I could do my work enjoying. Before I decide the theme, I had time to visit some galleries/museums so I planned to see some exhibitions which might make me feel interested and see if I could find the theme.
The exhibition I went on was about the embroidery. The space was quite small and there were only 5 pieces of tulle dresses made by a fashion designer, Molly Goddard who graduated CSM. However the impact of what those dresses gave to me was powerful and attractive. The purpose of this exhibition was to make people feel interested in embroidery and unite the people through embroidering on the one same dress, the dress will be totally different from the beginning because of the works of un-known artist. Some of the process of embroidery work from different 'artists' were interesting, I think it is because the artists did those work without knowing techniques. This exhibition made me feel interested in embroidery, I will do research further more.